S/S 2007 Shows: The Mid-point Assessment
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
I've been avoiding spending too much time reviewing the runway collections, for a few reasons: a) my mindset is completely fall/winter (or trying to be – it's tough when it's so hot out); and b) I find it much more interesting to wait and see how the best editors, stylists and stores interpret the looks, rather than clicking through picture after picture of runway shows. Shows are fantastic in person, when you can see the clothes move and the audience react and get caught up in the moment, and looking through photos online just pales in comparison and never does the designs much justice.
(Except for that dress above by Michon Schur. Isn't it gorgeous?)
That said, I still got a little curious and did some clicking around this weekend. After all, while these clothes won't be in stores for months, the most fashion-forward types will immediately take the top trends and start incorporating them into their wardrobes now. And, like we always say, there's nothing wrong with staying ahead of the curve.
The general consensus has been, overwhelmingly, that the shows have been really lackluster and uninspiring – and it's hard to argue with that. There are lots of beautiful clothes on the runways, but the most prevalent looks – voluminous dresses, little cropped jackets, muted colors – feels a lot like what we're already wearing. Then again, at least all my fantastic voluminous dresses aren't going out of style just yet. Silver linings and all.
Here's what's caught my eye from New York and (a tiny bit of) London. Bring on Milan and Paris! We're sure those guys must have something new up their stylish bell sleeves.
Never underestimate the power of a sleek, clean monochromatic outfit, with just a touch of interesting detailing. Looks like the bright, Clorox white from last summer is being replaced by a softer cream:
Clockwise, from top left: Aquascutum, Doo.Ri, 3.1 Philip Lim, Behnaz Sarafpour. (Most photos in this post are from style.com.)
Though many of the collections focused on beige, black and white, a couple of vibrant hues stood out at a few shows, like a bright royal blue, an eye-popping pink and an edgy chartreuse. (Sigh. No one – and I mean no one – looks good in chartreuse. They really should banish it from all collections, and also from Topshop.)
Above, from left: 3.1 Philip Lim, Chaiken.
From left: Rodarte, DKNY.
From left: Jenni Kayne, Thakoon.
And while we're at it: As a public service announcement, we would like to say that shirts with cut-out shoulders are a style that should be left in the 90s. It is entirely too early to even try and bring them back.
Also: How cute is Jenni Kayne in real life? I often feel that when designers step out for their bow, they are better styled and more put-together than their models were. Plus, it often give you a good glimpse to see how a real woman might wear the pieces:
In case this hasn't been beaten into you already, spring will definitely still be all about volume – but a much more understated, wearable volume than, say, the Balenciaga opera coat or peplum jacket. Actually, I really like the versatility of the voluminous dresses we're seeing – they can be belted or worn loose, and they're still slightly fitted, so you can be comfortable without looking too much like you're pregnant.
(Also: deep pinky reds = striking!)
Clockwise from top left: Malo (which reminds me of that Ashish Soni dress I'm nuts about), Matthew Williamson, Thakoon, Sabyasachi.
There always has to be one daring trendsetter in the group, and this season, it appears to be Marc Jacobs. Many are predicting his crazy harem-style pants are going to be the next big thing among the super-stylish. To which I say: Finally! A pant trend made for people with thighs. I'd be happy to give up depressing, trying-to-squeeze-into-skinny-jeans dressing room episodes once and for all.
Slight alternatives on the ballooning pants were offered by Biba and Threeasfour, which pretty much cements their up-and-coming status:
It does also seem that the skinny pant/leggings trend is going to give way to the skinny knee-length capri pant trend come spring. I remember those being so big when I first moved to New York eight years ago. But I have to admit, they do work well with the voluminous tops and are much more comfortable in warmer temperatures.
Casual, floor-length dresses have been showing up on the radar in recent months, but it seems they're about to have their moment. (Though I'm still trying to figure out how to best wear the toe-sweeping, prairie-style sundress I found at a thrift store last year.)
From left: Jenni Kayne, DKNY.
Of course I have my favorite looks so far. And they are:
Clockwise from top left: 3.1 Philip Lim, Proenza Schouler, Sabyasachi, Adam + Eve, Luca Luca, Chaiken.
None of these comes as much of a surprise -- they all have elements of things I love and have already worn for the past few seasons: peter pan collars; cropped little jackets; slouchy pants; pretty, simple dresses; textured, vintage-y prints; a hint of detail at the neck or at the hem. Perhaps because the move to this fall's current trends was so huge – volume! skinny legs! Balenciaga-inspired silhouettes sweeping the globe! – the next shift in fashion will be much more quiet and subtle.
Then again, I'm not sure if I'm the one being unimaginative, or if it's the designs.